23 posts tagged “climbing”
I have a thing for purposeful monochromatic constructions, devices that simultaneously tickle my parietal and occipital lobes, Venn diagrams of precious little intersection of the trickster, beauty and math. Childhood ingredients included parts Escher, Pinball Construction Set and the Basel School. This week I was ecstatic to be exposed to not one, but two examples of this meter—one physical, the other virtual, both Japanese, rendered in white, challenges to be experimented with.
My blog has been a morass of moblog messages lately and it’s time for some real [brief] content, yo! I’ll take this break from [attempting] to sleep to rectify.
- Acquired most of a trad rack on Saturday. REI had 20% off all BD cams. Woot!
- After not climbing for > 2 weeks, I climbed my hardest dihedral yet (10d), grunting all the way, no resting on rope!
This movie needs more exclamation points!
Climbed an 11a yesterday, with overhang. Janet was on belay, and she didn’t pull me up the wall.
Yesterday was a milestone for me in rock climbing. I didn’t ascend a new long route, or best my previous hardest grade. What happened was the ease of which I was able to ascend bouldering problems I’d previously struggled with. On problems I’d previously only barely gotten to the top of, straining the entire way—I could climb laps on. Where I was flailing a week ago, I was able to make every move with confidence and grace. Lunges became static moves.
Bouldering problems (at least at my gym) generally fall into one of the categories: Overhangs, stemming problems, and balancing acts. The latter are usually on sheer, vertical walls with minimal hand and footholds. They tax your ability to get close to the wall, trusting your feet (and to a lesser extent, your fingertips).
Overhanging problems stress grip strength and power/endurance. You need to keep your arms straight and focus on footwork. Otherwise you fall off because your arms are pumped and you simply can’t grasp anything.
Stemming problems have few, giant holds involving flexibility and strength (pushing and pulling). A glance at a stemming/mantling problem is most likely to enlist a “how the f*ck do you climb that?” response.
My arms and grip strength are weak. My core strength is fairly decent, and my legs are most developed. I’ve found I’m climbing these grades:
- Overhangs: V1+
- Balancing: V2
- Stemming/mantling: V3
Need to work on that first one.
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
Sent from my iPhone
